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1
Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue
The quickest anchor in ice is an ice screw, and in fact an ice screw in solid blue
ice is more reliable than any snow anchor Any of the tubular ice screws available
work well in glacier ice, although longer models are much preferred for added ...
2
Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique
However, with the advent of short screws and a better understanding of screw
physics, most climbers are using hooks less and less. Never use ice hooks of any
variety as the first piece on a route— they zipper out very easily. (Use an ice
screw ...
3
Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1999
Using a doubled 8.6 mm rope, they had at least one ice screw between them.
The terrain was water ice, moderate angle. Brian was leading. With one screw in
the ice, Greg stopped at the screw to wait for Brian to place a second ice screw ...
Driving an ice screw with the pick ofan ice tool. On ice topped with a layer of soft
snow or rotten ice, use the adze or pick to scrape down to a hard, trustworthy
surface before you make the starting hole (fig. 18-38a). In extremely rotten ice,
make ...
5
Field Techniques in Glaciology and Glacial Geomorphology
In instances where relatively small ice samples are required, such as for stable
isotope analysis, ice can readily be sampled with a threaded ice screw,
commonly available off the shelf. It is better not to use hammer-in screws for this
purpose ...
Bryn Hubbard, Neil F. Glasser, 2005
6
International Handbook of Technical Mountaineering
Ice screws kJ An ice screw with a rotating hanger eye. This means that the screw
can be clipped to the rope during placement and retneval with no fear of
dropping it. Ice screws should always be used in pairs when constructing a main
belay, ...
7
Snow and
Ice Techniques
There is no ice screw or piton which is the ideal - they each have their
advantages and disadvantages and one must use different screws for different
types of ice. The effectiveness of any ice screw ultimately depends upon the
strength of the ...
Bill March, Bill Birkett, 1997
8
The Mountain Skills Training Handbook
Ice screw Inverted clove hitch, using a tape sling 2 When buying an ice screw, it
is worth purchasing the more modern designs, which will have a large diameter
tube, and you should choose ones with no less than four or more than six cutting
...
Pete Hill, Stuart Johnston, 2000
V-THREAD (ABALAKOV ANCHOR) The idea behind the V-thread anchor is to
create two intersecting holes (the V) with an ice screw so that you can thread a
piece of cord through the V and tie it off. Fig. 6.20a Leave the first screw in
partway to ...
Martin Volken, Martin Volken, Scott Schell, Margaret Wheeler, 2011
10
The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering
The placement of an ice screw will only ever be as good as the ice into which it is
made. If any dinner-plating appears (the shattering of surface ice, often breaking
away in large plates), as the screw is wound in, it should be removed, the rotten ...
WIADOMOŚCI, KTÓRE ZAWIERAJĄ SŁOWO «ICE SCREW»
Sprawdź, o czym dyskutuje się w prasie krajowej i zagranicznej oraz jak jest stosowane słowo
ice screw w wiadomościach.
CAUGHT ON CAMERA: Swiss Alps skiing rescue
Once he was able to secure himself from falling further, using an ice screw, Benjamin calmed down. His fingers were too cold to use them to ... «KSPR, Cze 15»
Alpine skier records frightening fall and rescue from crevasse
He came to a stop and managed to secure himself with an ice screw to the wall while screaming to the companions he knew would already be ... «9news.com.au, Cze 15»
Scientists Map the Hidden Rivers That Feed Antarctica's Bleeding …
The IceMole is a long rectangular metal box with a copper head and ice screw at one end capable of melting its way through ice – but not just ... «Gizmodo, Kwi 15»
First samples collected from under Antarctica's blood falls
“The IceMole is a long rectangular metal box with a copper head and ice screw at one end capable of melting its way through ice – but not just ... «ZME Science, Mar 15»
The Ancient Secrets of a "Bleeding" Glacier Are Finally Being …
The IceMole is a long rectangular metal box with a copper head and ice screw at one end capable of melting its way through ice – but not just ... «Gizmodo, Mar 15»
Whatcom climber tells cautionary tale about Mount Rainier
In the icy couloir above he placed one ice screw and belayed the second up. Quick climbing by all of us and we were above the crux and out of ... «Bellingham Herald, Mar 15»
Climbers mystified by a bloodcurdling scream
I was on the the crux pitch – about 10m or so of very steep ground – and I had my back wedged against a rock wall as I placed an ice screw ... «Ghost Theory, Lut 15»
2015 Editors' Choice Awards: Big Agnes mtnGLO
Black Diamond Express Ice Screw (Blem)$39.99 was $59.95 (33% Off)BUY NOW. FlyLow Gear Men's Ridge Glove$17.99 was $39.95 (55% Off)BUY NOW. «Backpacker Magazine, Lut 15»
Karsten Delap shares tale of ice climbing on Looking Glass Falls
Once I got over the pillar, I tried to place an ice screw, but all the ice was either to thin or not solid enough. I went ahead and placed a really bad ... «Mountain Xpress, Lut 15»
Climbers mystified by 'bloodcurdling screaming'
I was on the the crux pitch - about 10m or so of very steep ground - and I had my back wedged against a rock wall as I placed an ice screw ... «BBC News, Lut 15»
