Waves
Wave (wave) is a surface wave that occurs on the surface of the ocean, that is, a wave that travels along the water and air interface, which belongs to a type of gravity wave. When the wind blows, the wind pressure and friction caused by the balance of the ocean surface disturbance, some energy from the wind transferred to the water. The energy of the water can be obtained from the wind because of the friction between the two, so that the surface particles moving in an elliptical motion, this elliptical motion is the longitudinal wave (to the movement) and the shear wave (up and down movement) synthesis. The waves are random; because the wind speed of the sea, the wind changes anytime, anywhere, so the waves are usually chaotic, the wave height, wavelength and cycle are random quantities. ...